Sunday, 16 October 2016

let's melt some sugar

The first fancy dessert garnish I remember learning was spun sugar. For me it was brilliant. As a young apprentice I learned an easy but very good looking garnish.

But that was the start of it all. Since pastry was not my forte, I was glad that I could do such work.

The more I practiced and read the more it fascinated me. How simple sugar granules can be converted to something so beautiful and the possibilities were endless.

You start with refined sugar, pure crystalline sweetness, put it in a pan by itself, and turn on the heat. When the sugar rises above 160°C, the solid crystals begin to melt together into a colorless syrup. Then another 10 degrees above that, the syrup begins to turn brown, emits a rich, mouth-watering aroma (I remember butter scotch, will talk about it at length some other time), and adds tart and bitter to its original sweetness. 

That's the magic of cooking front and center: from one odorless, colorless, simply sweet molecule, heat creates hundreds of different molecules, some aromatic and some tasty and some colored.

How does heat turn sugar into caramel? Heat is a kind of energy that makes atoms and molecules move faster. In room-temperature table sugar, the sucrose molecules are jittery but standing in place, held still by the forces of attraction to their neighbours. As the sugar heats up in the pan, its molecules get more and more jittery, to the point that their jitters overcome the attractive forces and they can jump from one set of neighbours to another. The solid crystals thus become a free-flowing liquid. Then, as the temperature of the sugar molecules continues to rise, the force of their jittering and jumping becomes stronger than the forces holding their own atoms together. The molecules break apart into fragments, and the fragments slam into each other hard enough to form new molecules.

That's what I've thought for many years, along with most cooks and confectioners and carbohydrate chemists: heat melts sugar, and then begins to break it apart and create the delicious mixture we call caramel.

And we've all been wrong.

It turns out that, strictly speaking, sugar doesn't actually melt.  And it can caramelize while it's still solid. So proved chemist Shelly Schmidt and her colleagues at the University of Illinois.

It's dismaying to think that so many could be so wrong for so long about such a basic ingredient and process! But it's also a rare opportunity to rethink the possibilities of the basic.

So what I say is the way we found out that things aren’t always the way we have been thinking they are, lets melt some more sugar in various forms of our lives, keep inventing and reinventing. 

Let’s melt some more sugar, and maybe it’ll not need to be melted to make caramel.


Monday, 25 July 2016

Back again.

Hello!

It's good to be back.. its good to write something after a long time. and I hope it's not a once in a year activity. A lot has changed since I last wrote here.

The challenges have grown, what was improbable last year is happening right now.
I'm sure Pepper would agree.

The road ahead is tricky, but as I always tell my mother (for whom I'm just a boy), 'Don't worry, I'll manage.'

We are not getting any younger so it's better to redefine our goals. 30 is a milestone where stop and access, 'How has it been so far?' and 'What next?'

This is the year of answering these questions and planning for the Future.

While I answer these, at the back of my mind I know that, "Life is, what happens to you, when you are busy planning'

Salt

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Winds of change!

It has been a while since we wrote here

And as the life goes on, we too have moved on in our careers, the roles have changed. The leadership role comes with a lot of responsibility, where the management entrusts you to make decisions good for the business.
One problem I see in the businesses here in the ME is the resistance to change (maybe not just here). And bring about the change is the only thing that drives me these days, changing the work culture, habits, especially in a company where the management feels the need of change. Which I believe is a good sign.
No longer kitchen space is occupied by lesser fortunate in terms of education and culinary background, but the older guard still seems to be not letting it go. Some seek pleasure in disorganization, the rule of fear and control. Learning takes a back seat in such places. They resist female presence in the kitchen, and despise fresher talent, purely as they feel lazy and fear to work together/compete.
More places I go to I see the need for change, and contribute in the ways I can. Teach, show, guide, and coach. The guard changes slowly, but gradually. We are not here to create a revolution but help in the evolution.

Tuesday, 3 September 2013

Hidden treasures..

The world is going through a bad phase. and the factors are quite evident. but what there are a few more factors that make it worse. the lack of smiles you see all around. yes the major events in the world do effect people what effects them more is what they go through every day, at Work.

The tedious tasks that they perform 9-5 or more number of hours. Some people spend their entire lives doing something they have no interest in. and doing them without realizing where their real talents lie or if they have any.
and I believe everyone has some talent or the other.
I meet a lot of people who do not enjoy what they do, they just get on with their lives. enduring it more than enjoying it. And wait for the weekend.
but there are some on the other hand, whom I have a pleasure of knowing, who just love what they do(most of them Chefs). if you ask them to stop doing what they do, they would look you as if you have lost it! It is not what they do, it is what who they are. it defines them
 they in real sense live the dream. their jobs might not be as well cash rewarding in the end, but the satisfaction and joy that they get on doing it is more than enough for them.
some times they might feel offended if we ask them about their job, for them its more its a Profession as they(including me) would like to call it. it adds that extra bit of pride to it.
But the latter variety of people are in minority.

And the heart of the problem is the education systems all around. everyone wants their kids to be the following
Doctors
Engineers,
Chartered accountants,
Pilots, and worse to
lead their family business.

If every kid in the world follows those careers then who will become an army man, a photographer, a painter, and most importantly a CHEF!!!!

this world as we know depends on diversity of talent. not singularity. and this is where we need to redefine ability and talent. it not only the child/man/women who scores good in mathematics who is intelligent but anyone who can express their talents in a way that is unique must be considered intelligent.
we have modeled our education system on the model of fast food.
the fast food model is based on the conformity, quality assurance.
on the other hand we have fine dining restaurants where its about quality assurance along with customization.
but what is evident that we have sold ourselves to the fast food model. and as most people would agree that fast food ain't that good for your body(mind and soul).

it is time that we shift from the this factory style setup of educating people and transforming the into machines(with feelings) to a very organic style of education where we adapt and customize education. we create conditions where talents can flourish. the results may not be very instant. you might not be to score them on talent. but what I believe that this would lead to much more fulfilling careers for many.

talent like another natural resource is a not always present on the surface. it is generally embedded deep. and we need to dig deep to bring our talents out. we need to provide the right conditions for it to shine. And once it does shine, may will get a purpose in life.
And even the weekdays will be fun.

Adios

Salt

 

Sunday, 1 September 2013

Educating for the future.. are we killing creativity?



I have an interest in education. I guess everyone has interest in education. it is one of those things like religion and money.
which is quite evident with the way we react to the college cut off percentages, even though we might not know anyone who will be going to that particular college or university. we are fascinated with the MIT's and IIT's so much even though our interests may lie in arts or commerce.

I believe this is so because of our believes that it is education that will take us into the future. the future we know nothing about. we don't even know how the world will look 6 months from now, especially with the US and French interest in Syrian people(read: oil).
But it is the children that we educate today who will be a part of the leadership in about 25-30 years from now. The world has changed so dramatically over the past 10 years and it was just picking the speed at that time. So how can we continue to use the methods that British started to use in the early 19th century to train a standardized work force that would later work in the industries that fuelled their economy. The entire setup is so archaic but all we try to do is to evolve it to meet the present world issues. And that is not good enough. Not any longer.

The motto of our current education system seems to be STANDARDISATION 

Standardization is good. Who does not like Pringle chips? Standard, uniform and all taste the same. I love binging on them(that is quite evident now). But if you were told that you can have your children the same way. They will your look talk think and act the same way. Just like Pringle chips. How would you feel now? Would you still go for it?

If you have ever been around children (small people), yours or someone else’s. You would have noticed that they are all different. No two kids are the same. They are all so unique, smart and creative. My 5 year old niece is so good in painting. But what I have realized is that ever since she started to go to the school her paintings have changed. There is more of uniformity in her approach. Now she her drawings have got a structure. And I guess at her tender age she has been exposed to the norms of the world. And now I can bet even though she is an awesome painter most of the kids in her class would be making similar paintings.
The point that I want to make is that in the modern education set up most of the kids are slowly but steadily drawn away from their creative selves.

All over the world I see that kids are being trained to compete in the rat race by their parents. Even without realizing that at the end of the race the winners are still rats.
The maximum emphasis given by teachers and parents are on the subjects of mathematics and sciences.
I wish equal weightage was given to arts and sports. There should be more dedicated arts classes (music, dance, painting, etc.) where kids get a chance to get chance to express themselves and be creative.
Especially in India we do not give chances for kids to think on their own. Most parents take decisions for their kids and it’s the kids’ responsibility to follow what has been told.
Luckily for me my parents never stopped me from choosing my career, they were all the more supporting and  let me choose the path I want to take for my future. They definitely guided me and help me choose the Best college for my graduation.(Pepper, I hope you understand what I mean by BEST). And now I can’t think of what else I would have been if I were not a Chef. that defines me now.
The education system does not need evolution it needs a revolution. Yes mathematics and sciences are important. But what is more important is have an organic development for our kids.  if a kid is poor in numbers does not mean that he/she is a duffer. intelligence has different forms. the kid might be good in something else like music, sports etc. creativity in all forms should be respected and nurtured.
By the way Pablo Picasso was dyslexic, imagine if he had listened to all the people who said that he was not smart enough... and so is Richard Branson...

I believe that creativity is and will be even more bigger deciding factor to where we will take our country/world. 
Lets educate our children in a way that we can customize their education as per their needs and bring out the creative bests in them. it may not be possible in schools but let's do it at our homes for them.

As Mark twain once famously said, "I have never let my schooling interfere with my education."

Salt


Sunday, 25 August 2013

India... Superpower??

Is India the next 21st century super power/the next world leader?

That's what everyone says the world over. But is it? And if yes then why?

What constitutes to being a super power?

Is it the population? Then yes we are on course to  top the charts. We will overtake China very soon(2034).
Or is it military? we have 4th largest army in the world. we have the nuclear weapons as well.

But if you look carefully these have been with India for a long time. So there must be something else that has that has brought about that shift in India's position in the modern world.
I was wondering that how come India with all the trouble it has managed to be considered a super power.

The very first world impression I got about my own country came about 18 yrs back, from my aunt, who had recently come back to Delhi after living an year in Mexico. She had narrated to me that while she was travelling in a bus in Mexico city, she was asked by a fellow passenger if we had any busses in India? or we still used to travel to our offices in bullock carts or on elephants. and if she knew the rope trick. This was amusing then, on how little knowledge people had about India.
Fast forward to today, if you ask any one in the West almost everyone knows what India is.
the general impressions about India are following
INDIA is the place where all there jobs have gone.
it is the place where all 1800(toll free) calls are answered.
its the land of software gurus, business tycoons and slum dog millionaire

So how did this all change?
what is significant is the spread of internet in this period.
the flow of information has been enormous, even if Indian Government wanted to spread this information or not.

But what I believe have been the real causes in the shift are the things that actually happened without anyone knowing it.
Bollywood (hindi cinema) and Indian Cuisine.

I have been living in the UAE for almost 4 years now and whenever I go to a theatre to watch a Hindi movie I see more Locals watching them than Indians. majority of them young adults. Not just here that is the case all over the world. Americas, Europe , South east Asia and even Africa. people watch such movies without comprehending a word that is spoken, in many cases even the sub titles are not in their native languages. anyways these movies are made to be understood without all sorts of handicap. After the 2 and half hours of song, dance and drama. they walk out of the theatres with stars in their eyes and India in their hearts.

And the same is true about Indian cuisine. With the growth of the middle class around the world, eating out has become a habit for many around the world. and that's where Indian restaurants do there trick. the proliferation of Indian restaurants around the world is such that you cant go to a medium sized town in Europe/Americas and not have an Indian restaurant there. it might not be a very good one, but they are there. Indian restaurants in Europe and US have been awarded Michelin stars.
and you have extremely good restaurants all over. the spice of Indian food ensures that people don't forget India after their meal or not at least till the next day morning.
Indian restaurants in Britain employ more people that coal mining, ship building and iron & steel industries combined. And that is a fact.

As a Chef I consider it my honour to showcase my country on a plate. And being the talkative one I love talking to people and share my culture and my country with them.

what I have concluded is that its not about which country has the biggest military muscle or the financial power. in this century the country with the better story will be the NEXT SUPER POWER.
Governments aren't the best at telling stories(especially ours where the leader refuses to speak up). But as I write here the story is being told all by the medium of art, culture, costume, custom, cuisine and consonant.

Many also say that India is a super power and super poor. How can we be both?
India has the software of growth but not the hardware of growth. but as you read the country is fighting to overcome the challenges of poverty, illiteracy, roads, electricity and much more. Even Rome was not built in a day and India is thousands time bigger than Rome. All  it needs is the correct governance and a strong leadership/ownership and a bit of dictatorship (which can happen in the next general elections) to put it on track of hardware acquisition.

India has done its mis en place to prepare an amazing dish. it is just waiting for the Chef to cook it well and serve it to its people and to the World. and take the honours of being the next superpower.


And for me that is a better story.

......
Salt








 

Saturday, 9 July 2011

Food is not the same anymore!!

Today I ask you to... Reimagine Food!

Pepper would agree that we the crazy ones are passionate about food. The base of our passion coming from the hotel school, where we learned the basics about food, culinary techniques, concepts and similar terms. We read books, went through practical cooking classes. All these factors came together and gave our perspective of food at that early stage.
But it was later that I started working in professional kitchens that i realised the perspective that I had built was based on books written many decades ago. And I had started to envision, learn and write about food was based on those old texts.
Since last 20 years more emphasis has been given to link food closely to science(chemistry/physics of food)
Chefs around the world are going much ahead in creating newer techniques and aesthetics of doing food. And in order to learn them I needed to open my mind. Study not just cuisine but science behind the cuisine and create my own culinary aesthetic. It is time that we go byond the 'Authentic' and recreate it in a way I would love to have it. Combining the best of cooking techniques with the best of ingredients and creating food which redefines it's identity. Putting my identity on the plate. Let's not follow the pattern, open our paradigms and think different(apple). As old way of doing things is indeed the OLD way of doing things.
But does that mean what was done before was wrong? Not at all, that was right for that time and will continue to appeal many. I would still like my butter chicken with garlic naan. But how can I make the butter chicken even better? shall I cook the chicken sous vide or shall I use plum tomatoes for my sauce? That is for me to work on and conclude what is the best(for me)?
Coz I believe, food is not the same anymore!!

Sunday, 22 May 2011

DILLI 6



"I asked my soul, what is Delhi" She replied: "The world is the body and Delhi its soul."
Asadullah Khan Ghalib (19th century poet)
By Delhi, Ghalib meant what is now called Old Delhi, one of the most fascinating part of the capital city of India. I have been visiting the city since my childhood and have been captivated by the distinct identity, culture and traditions of the area. It is perhaps this distinct identity and culture which has implored people to refer to it as "the Walled City," a city in itself.
I come from a family of vegetarians. And my grandfather being the best vegetarian cook ever known to me. He was a very good story teller as well. I have heard many stories about his days in old Delhi and the legendary chaats of Sita ram bazaar from him. But it was only when I was working in Delhi and had planned a street food festival in my restaurant I decided to research on the where is the best street food in Delhi. I took help of my Kulfi supplier (whose family was in the business for the last 4 generations). I decided to meet him at his shop in sita ram bazaar, Dilli 6
It was a cold delhi afternoon, I boarded the metro from the Rajiv chowk station (Connaught place, heart of New Delhi). Took Rs.6 ticket to Chawri Bazaar metro station and here I was in metro station 4 storeys below the ground level. I wondered why they have dug up soo deep. As I stepped out of the station I realised why!!
I was in the busy, dusty, narrow, noisy bylanes of old delhi. Hustle bustle of walled city can mesmerise any one. The area is identified by extremely small shops, congested streets and dilapidated buildings. Over the years, there has hardly been any difference in the typography of the area except over the recent past when the area has witnessed a spurt in modernism, thanks to the Metro rail project, which has connected the Walled City to the more modern and cosmopolitan part of Delhi.
Thanks to the Metro rail project, it is particularly trouble-free to reach Chandni Chowk now. There is a perceptible change in the economy of the walled street because of the Metro Rail project. For the first time, old delhi is directly connected with the cosmopolitan section of the city.
Built in 1650 AD as an accompaniment to Red Fort, Chandni Chowk was designed by Jahanara, daughter of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. The story goes that on a moonlit night, the new complex and the river canal, which used to flow through Chandni Chowk lay shimmering; and as a result it acquired the name of Chandni Chowk.
Out side the station I asked for directions and moved towards Sita ram bazaar. Went upto Subedar Kulfi wala where Bobby (proprietor) was waiting for me. After the compulsory tea, he made me sample some of the best kulfis he does like the mango kulfi(inside a real mango skin), chikoo and orange(similarly done). According to him he loved doing business in this part of the city as people here were very fond of eating food(only vegetarian) and knew their tastes very well.
 People who would start their day with halwa poori and imarti. Have diferrent chaats throughout the day and matra kulcha in the evening before heading home. Heavy eaters, the size of their stomachs showed true Global-isation.
He then guided me to an old shop in sita ram bazaar, the guy sold gol gappa nad bhalla papri chat. I must say the gol gappa I had there were the best ever.rustic, thick, semolina pastyry shells, typically homemade, stuffed with boiled potatoes, tiny chickpeas and tamarind chutney and then dipped in the tangy water with raw tamarind were a revelation. Then I sampled the bhalla papri chaat a there, oohhh that was just awesome. I noticed that he was adding spicy sweet potato and a strange black spice mix. I asked him what was tis black spice mix to which he replied that he does not know. It was made by his father and his father never told him the recipe. I wondered what if his father could not whisper the recipe in his son’s years on his death bed. The special spice mix will be lost forever. That was very strange but I realised what it took in this day and age for an old man to keep his stature in the family.

We then carried on to Hauz Qazi where we tried a chaat which is not seen in new delhi. Kalami vada- deep fried gram flour discs loaded with, sweet yoghurt, tamarind chutney, mint chutney, kala masala and spiced shakarkandi. Unique.
Our last stop was the matra kulcha wala around the corner at hauz qazi. Boiled dried peas tossed with onion, tamarind, ginger, green chillies, and kala masala and served with kulcha bread.(this was my grand fathers favourite) I missed him with every bite I had. I was truly delicious. The meal was rounded up with 2 helpings of banta(LEMONADE).
After all that I had it was impossible to try anything more. But bobby wanted me to try more stuff that dilli 6 had to offer. But then sense prevailed and I said bye to bobby. Until next time.. to visit the non vegetarian paradise of Dilli 6!
 Bon appetit!

Sunday, 17 April 2011

The prep list and the murphy's law

I have gone through some major changes in my life in the past couple of months. Some of my friends will know for sure what i am talking about here. I was lost, but I wasn't afraid. It was like following a fool proof recipe to the "e" where in the scope of improvisation is quite limited or none, and more so you already know how the end result is going to look, taste and feel like. The only improvisation that you can actually do is in the presentation part. Fortunately or unfortunately, thats my forte. As always, this time it is very crucial as well.

I was away for a bit and my friend "salt" had kept the kitcherie alive by injecting the special marinades time and again.Wanting to write again after some time is a bit of a challange for a Chef. Just that you get sucked into so many of the everyday chores that keeps you busy. Everyday chores here will be new menu planning, costing it, marketting activities, photoshoots, training, presentations, execution and follow ups, top it up with occassional out door caterings. They are quite some fun too. Your life is pretty much exciting and juicier as a Chef, or we like to make it sound like that, whatever be the reason, its quite amazing being one and being able to live upto it.

"Salt" can give you a fairer idea with his all time favorite sayings that "Chefs never sleep, they take rest, Chefs never eat, they taste......." and my personal favorite one "Chefs never COME.. they ARRIVE!!" And I know a lot of CHEFS who live by this statement.

Recently I did an outdoor catering event. It was pretty high profile event considering the fact that the host was one of the richest in UAE and comes under forbes list of te richest entrepreneurs. Trust me, outdoor caterings are always fun, there are always unavoidable last minute things which will go wrong and then the key is to change gears and make the sticky situation into a caramel toffee and use it to benefit. I had been negotiating with the host on all the planning, menu, set up and everything majorly. Last moment requests were happily accomodated. Now, the degree of happiness varies when you get these last moment changes on a weekend and you know that there wont be any supplies till the begining of the week. All said and done, as usual my new enthusiastic assistant Chef or the Sous Chef as we call in kitchense, made a couple of extremely well defined checklists to be checked off. Cooking was done in the degree of fondness for teh food. Each Chef I have ever seen is passionate about certain dishes which he calls his speciality, I usually prefer them to freely do those particular dish as the level of confidence is higher and there is always this sense of competition amongst the cooks to cook better than the other one. Althogh, I do make sure that they follow a certain recipe and I am aware that wht dish will it come out to be. Its good to be unpredictable, but in Kitchen trust me you love to be predictable!!!

Coming back to the checklists, it was perfect. everything looked so good on paper, but then I had this deja vu moment where I knew that no matter what you follow or do, MURPHY's LAW prevails. Something will go wrong! In this case the other day, I checked everything but we manged to loose out the dessert garnish, the siphone gun won't work there and to deal with a sudden request to organize a live bar be cue for 50 people, while you are away from your set up by 80 odd kilometers! Its like fighting the battle on a foreign turf with no ammunition.
But then, there I was equipped with two other CHEFS in the team, and as our training or talim  goes, we never say no. So, somehow we managed to pull off a great night for th hosts. They awere all merrily happy considering the fact we were serving food a'la zafran fine dine style and drinks till 4 AM.
The team was physically and mentally exhausted after 17 hrs or work for some and 12 -13 hrs  of work for some others, the function got over, but its still not over for us. We need to unwind, repack and come to the base, unload, cleaup and then you plan for the next day and if you may, get some sleep.
All this pain goes and becomes a satisfying smile with the host turning and telling you how godly good the food was. Well, not that I didnt know it was good, but still you wait all evening to listen to those golden words of gratitude. Isn't this very similar to being in the entertainment industry? We are still no superstars.. but for me that day the entire team was a super star!
The star on the menu that night was the "seared malai scallops with zafrani jhinge" went very well with figs and berry chutney. Rumali rotis were another attarction, its old claasy and still works to draw crowds, just like the gran torino car.

As I see the busy weekend pass by and sail into a relaxed sunday (now you know, where the bolg came from) other things are catching up the prioirty on the list which I need to check off. And time and again.. Muphy's law will prevail... or rather hope not.

Adios...
Pepper





Saturday, 9 April 2011

Young, Unique and Passionate.

Young, Unique and Passionate. Passion is one thing i find common in my breed of Chefs. Young and Passionate are the most apt words to describe them. We are young but does that mean we lack experience?? Maybe.. Maybe not. i believe lack of experience helps us to be innovative. Young, Unique and Passionate. 

Sunday, 26 December 2010

what brought me here..

(it always takes me a bottle of wine to start writing)I blame it on the Indian education system that when i feared that i will flunk in my maths board exam in High School i managed 70%. that was good enough for me to take up maths as an elective subject along with Commerce(though i always thought i was better at arts).  but i blame this too on the system (even though no one forced anything on me, its nice to put the blame on others). but after 2 years of hard fought struggle i managed to survive commerce, and that too with flying colours. i had kept my expectations low and fears high, so the 70% i got were good enough. Meanwhile i was still thinking what next???
what can i do after school? continuing with commerce would have been like stabbing my self AGAIN!! so that was out of question. or shall i continue pursuing one of my passions, that was at that time, JUDO. Maybe i thought, i was never sure. i had heard about Hotel Management, don't remember from where. but heard it was the course of the future. what future? I had no clue.
so i applied to 7 hotel management colleges in the country. gave entrance examination everywhere. the results started pouring in. i got scared. i got through each and every one of it. ooty, kolkata, delhi, aurangabad, meerut but the fight was between Gurgaon and IHMCTAN. gurgaon was sponsored by a reputed hotel company, no fees but a 5 year career bond after a completion of a course of 4 years. 9 years of my life dedicated to a company?? i did not know what to expect out of the course after 1 month, imagine 9 years of bond. phew!! it was not for me. al  other colleges never excited me. one of my family friends who worked for Pusa Institute was very possitive as i had scored All India rank of 144 and i could choose any of the 26 colleges spread all over India. i had no clue what to choose. i heard Delhi college is v good(pepper would agree), and i can be home while studying. But a friend of my dad told him that bombay college is much better than delhi. so my dad asked me if i wanted to go there?? i still had no clue.. i said, Why Not?
I went to bombay in Rajdhani express with my dad. at 7 am in the morning as the train was closing in on the Mumbai central station, the view outside was not an ideal start to the day.
we reached IHMCTAN mumbai (dadar catering) at around 9 am. the college campus was just 2 buildings, 1 basketball court and staff quarters. Much smaller than the average college campus in any other part of the world. I guess the prize paid for being in a prime location in Mumbai. at around 10 am I along with other 200 odd clueless students had an induction to the college. We were told about the history, reputation, discipline of the institute and stupid questions and answers were exchanged. As i sat through all that my mind was working overtime thinking, if all this was worth it? had i made the right choice by coming here? I had no idea what to expect out of this B.Sc.(H&HA).
After two hour long induction session we were told to check out our Hostel rooms. mine was 809!!

And the journey began!!

Tuesday, 12 October 2010

Look who's cooking!

Pepper: Which is your favorite restaurant Mr. Salt?

Salt: Mmmm.. difficult question you put Pepper, you know that I am a foodie, I have so many of them, but the one next to the beach (read kitcherie) serves amazing food. I can bet on the mullet there, I always make sure I order that on every visit.

Pepper: Aha, I never tried that..

Salt: Oh.. you should, the Chef there is a friend of mine and an interesting person to talk, I just love the way he cooks my mullet to perfection and the way it is always the same... I think he is a gifted Chef, young and very talented. His recipes are just out of the world.

I guess all of us have our favourite restaurant, in that favourite restaurant we have our favourite dish. The one dish that you just LOVE!! It's a must have whenever we go to that restaurant. And also we do not forget to brag about this place and the food all the time.. as if you get paid to be the brand ambassador! The icing on the cake here will be if you are friends or happen to know the Chef or even someone in the Management. Its socialy fashionable.


The above dialogue between Mr.Salt and Mr. Pepper is a very common one, I can put my money on it that all of us must have heard or talked something similar at some point. What made me and Salt think about this is who is the real super star here? Who is the man behind the perfect steak all the time? Is he the same guy who cooks for me all the time? For me and many like me, its easy to identify him. 

Of course he is the Chef! The brilliant friendly Chef who visits the tables in the restaurants, wearing the crisp white jacket with embroidered name, the tall torque and talks about food like poetry.


Think again, is he the one behind the hot stove and grill, sweating it out to do your perfect steak? How does he manage to do it all by himself and still stay so clean in his jaket? You even see on the televison about this handsome pretty face, giving a warm welcome for food.
No it's NOT HIM!

If you observe a busy restaurant kitchen closly you will find that it resembles an orchestra, everyone moves and plays his instrument to precision and at the end what you get is beautiful compilation - MENU!! and all synchronized by a the conductor, the CHEF!

The Man might be the face of the restaurant, might have been a mozzart, but this is not about him. This is about the one violin player in the orchestra who has a very important chord to play. He is the one at the heat of the grill, pushing your orders with skill and craftmanship! He is the less heard of COMMIS CHEF! He is the line cook, or shall I say, he is the soldier with the gun at the front trench facing the first bullet from the other side.

He / she is the one who cooks.
Its the brigade of cooks and in kitchenese terminology  it's called 'Commis'
noun (es, pl2=commis)
1.(obsolete) A deputy or clerk of a foreign official
2.(especially in combination) An assistant to a chef


The second definition is more closer to reality.


It's the commis who actually cook that perfect dish of yours. Please don't take away all the credit from the Chef who make makes the standard, trains the commis and ensures that they cook every dish the same way as he made them see and taste for the first time.


Chef is more essentially a good leader, teacher, cook and a Flirt! I always see Chefs busy flirting with the waitresses at the food pass or anywhere else, atleast thats what my close friend Ms. J.R.C likes to believe. And she is not completely wrong. Trust me, Chefs are pretty good at what they do.. ;-)Anyway, as I was telling, this time it is more about the real action hero / or should I say the stunt man? this reminds me that a close friend of mine Ms.Z, will always tell me it should be less about you and more about others. I agree, thats the key to happiness maybe. So, the Commis Chef needs a special recognition here. He definitely deserves the applause. I always make sure to pass on the thanks from the guests to the team without whom the heavenly experience wont be complete for the guest, and at the same time also make sure to tell the guests that its the hard working Commis who made the perfect steak for him!

Many a times its difficult to find a commis Chef who will share the equal amount of zeal and passion as your very french poetic Chef will have. I believe its purely because maybe the for the commis Chef it is more of a livelihood than a form of art to follow or passion? It is indeed the bitter reality.

the Mozart of cuisine wants his violinsts (read commis Chefs) to be passionate but not always innovative. your favourite steak should taste the same every time you visit kitcherie. Chef likes his commis to display the repetoire of his dishes when he is in the process of making a menu. But once the menu is finalised, Chef does not like the commis to experiment with his menu. he trusts the commis to cook the same way every time.

A highly trained/specialist commis Chef has a good technique, precise movement, clean work table and all of it done with great speed. but the most important character he must have is endurance. he never calls in sick, shows up late, and works his entire shift even in pain or slight fever.

Professional cooking is not about about best recipe, best ingredients, beautiful presentations or the flavour or texture of food. as all of them have been decided much before you take your seat on the table with the beautiful view. its more about what is done at the moment of truth, by the commis Chefs. He cooks with consistency, performs same tasks over and over again in exactly the same way.

So lets give them the due credit for the good job done. a pat on the back and all the words and deeds of motivation for making your steak taste as delicious every time!!


Monday, 4 October 2010

Culinary Journey 1: An Introduction to Food (Pepper)



Culinary will simply mean “of or for cooking”.  Cooking relates to FOOD rather than cooking stories for me! As everyone would accept, except a few (sorry Mr. Molecular foodies) that food necessarily sustains life, I mean that’s the purpose of it.  Taking it to a new higher level does not necessarily solve the purpose what nature had envisioned for food but rather makes it to a super luxury and an experience to take back; which is very acceptable to me.  Rather I do that myself all the time.  Food has been holding a sacred place in all the cultures and traditions that I ever know, even religions for that matter.  Thanks to the continuous efforts and experiments from all Chefs and Mothers worldwide that Food has eventually taken a form of art which we now address by the word “culinary”.  I am no way trying to compare the Mothers to Chefs, I hold Mothers in high regards.

Gastronomy is another thing.  It would essentially mean the art and practice of choosing, cooking and eating good food.  Gastronomy is more of a social element to study.  It will relate the people to food of a particular region.  So, my journeys in time have taken me to and through a lot of gastronomies and eventually a lot of cooking and culinary.  However, the very beginning of my getting introduced to food is quite an eventful tale.

I remember an occasion where a journalist (trust me, media plays a big glamorous role in this sector of being a Chef) once asked me “Chef, what is your first memory of food? (Another interesting fact here which I went to share is that no matter who knows your name or not, even if your company promotes first name culture, you always get addressed by “Chef”, that too with a CAPITAL C).

This question actually got me up and thinking before even giving a well-trained crap answer from my media manager.  Anyway, I had done my practice well and gave a very media friendly diplomatic answer which I am sure made me sound like a born prodigy with a knife and apron! While in my mind I was still struggling with the answer.  I went back to the memory of my first food still struggling to get what it was.  Trust me, I knew that the first food what I had was surely my Mother’s milk but I could go nowhere near to recall how it must have tasted like.  That brought me to the next phase where I had much clearer memories; the first thing that I remember clearly was a mashed apple which my mom used to give as an infant food.  There it was my first memory of food – Mashed Apple! Wasn’t it just great? A fresh ripe plum apple carefully chosen and cooked till tender and soft in a pressure cooker, trapping all its flavors and aromas…oh, it was beautiful! Believe me, I do not remember anything else from those times but my pea sized brain well registered the taste, flavor and aroma of the simple apple mash.

Strange but I do not remember anywhere close to what a lot of packaged infant and baby food tasted like, which I am sure was fed to me as I saw my childhood pictures with the colorful baby food cans in them.  All I related to my first memory of food was a mashed apple.  Looking at the transition, the similar apple mash which as blissful to me then would not appeal me now!  What will appeal me now is the same apple mash but with little cinnamon, caramelized sugar or hints of honey! I can already visualize apple pie somewhere! So what is this transition? Is it the education combined with experiences and training that my palate or taste buds have gone through with each passing day of my life?  Maybe or maybe, it is just me.  I am not very sure if my mom will still choose apple pie over a fresh apple, but then, you cannot compare again; like I said, the Mothers to the Chefs.

Since childhood, I had been quite choosy about food.  Thanks to my generous upbringing and the fact that I was the only kid (read heir) in my entire family. I would usually get all what I wanted.  I never wanted to have candies, chips or chocolates to a major extent. My demands were more to the visually tempting foods like a roast chicken, kebabs, street food and barbecues. I would just tell my mother that I want to eat something every now and then, not that I was always hungry or obese as a kid, just that I always needed something to tickle my taste buds, I used to call it “chatpata” (there are certain things you cannot explain in English, well, this is one of those).  Sometimes my mom will toss this question back to me, “ok, tell me what exactly you you want me to cook?”  I usually had no answers.  When I would complain about the vegetables like Okra and bitter gourd or egg plants for that matter, my mom will take me to the vegetable store and ask me to choose what I wanted.  But going to buy and choose vegetables with her was fun!  I am sure I was a cute kid (or my mom was cute?) and that is why most of the vegetable vendors will give me a carrot or a tomato or a radish to munch on while she was happily bargaining for every penny’s worth.   Sometimes, I used to think how would the poor chap survive and sustain his business after everyone bargains so much with him.  Nevertheless, that was my first experience of raw vegetables and the sweetness of carrots and pungency of radishes is still fresh in my head.

Occasionally, I will get treated for the ice cream from the vendor in the old rickety bicycle.  I still remember his face, I sometimes wonder of all the years of seeing him and he never used to get older.  He was always the same old chap, even when I grow to a handsome teenager!  I would not like the expensive cones but loved the iced lollies (orange, mango), or the make shift vanilla milk cones where the ice cream was skillfully arranged on top of a waffle cone with a rusted steel spoon by my ice cream uncle…we used to call it softy!  That was my first ice cream memory! Then came the western companies with the live ice cream machines for the real soft serves.  We will flock to the neighboring sweet shop for a more than double expensive cone, and I will always struggle to read the name on the machine called “carpigiani”.  Now as a professional, I used this particular brand for making my ices and sorbets.

I grew up in New Delhi, India.  It is a cultural melting pot as it is the capital city of India.  I love the street side food from here.  I have a very fond memory of the chaat from this place.  We had this young guy from U.P. selling chat on a basket kept in his head and he would carry the earthen pot with spiced water covered with a bright red wet cloth shouting something which sounded like “gogaawaaaaaaeesss”.  I still do not what he meant but it surely was a welcome cry! I loved his combinations with sweet sour tamarind and mint chutneys and little spices on the papri chaat with curd and golgappas (my mouth is watery again!).  I do not say that his were the best of product but for a child, it was accessible and cheap. Until today, I cannot forget his signature mustache which looked like a captain’s mustache.  I saw him after like ten years once and his mustache still hold firm and looks the same.


Another of my fond food memory is fresh fruits.  There was this Bangladeshi fruit vendor who will sell bananas only.  He will carry the banana basket on his head and shout “kele lelo..kele company!”, something will catch my attention as to why is he saying kele company (translated to branded bananas by some company).  I do not know if he is influenced by the capitalism that he will try to tell everyone that his bananas are branded, or was it the sarcasm he is putting at the Capitalists?  I was too young to judge that but surely I did think on this.  He seemed like little crazy in the head at times but then who is sane enough.  Eventually, he diversified his business from just bananas to mixed fruits.  My parents in particular loved papayas for some reason.  Sometimes, the point of bargain will shift from money to sweetness of the fruit! I used to wonder how this guy guarantees the sweetness of the fruit.  I learnt about the artificial ripening process from this guy.  He secretly showed me the small packet of carbide which he carried in his head basket to ripen fruits.  First memory again!

There have been so many first memories in my life. First fish, first meat, first kiss, first accident in the kitchen, the very first perfect omelet for that matter.

Going forward to the first day at the culinary college, I was all dressed up in the Chef’s white with a strange funny looking apron and a tall hat.  It was weird at first but then, when you see everyone like feels comfortable, like sauna, first you feel that only you are fat and people are staring at you, but after two minutes you realize that everyone else is fatter than you.  It was the first session with our Chef Professor who seemed like a malnourished kitchen helper (no disrespect meant).  It was about equipment identification and egg cookery.  This was the first magical thing as I was here able to relate to the whys of cooking and see instant results like coagulation of proteins on application of heat and more.  It was just wonderful.

There were so many firsts to come and I was so much looking forward to them.  The culinary journey never ends.  It is a constant road to quest. Live curious.

Signing off now, my kitchen is calling me now.  Another journey tomorrow from the culinary school and beyond.

Saturday, 2 October 2010

Birth of Kitcherie

Have you ever wondered why people talk, speak, paint or sing or for that matter blog?? I believe that its an essential human need to express oneself as man is a unfortunately a social animal!
When me (pepper) and my friend (salt) started talking after a couple of drinks on one sunday night we never had really thought that this would take us up to try and create a blog of our own. Actually for all those who have read "Kitcherie"as I have always maintained that it is not always about the food and related thoughts also its not about our urge to become writers or something. Its just a canvas where we want to freely express the thoughts that pop out in our heads and in the due mean inspire ourselves and others. I do not want to be living in a perfect always, spelling and typographical mistakes are accepted.

I still remember was the fall of year 2002, I was struggling hard with our country's education system to prove my intelligence worth and on the same time trying really hard to preserve my emotional quest. Its at times ridiculous that you need to secure great percentages to prove your intelligence. Isn't being intelligent and wise different from being well educated and learned? I remember a lot of people who were not educated, not learned were great visionaries, leaders and had a passion in their life. Need i give any examples? I had just mentioned the word "learned". When I look up the dictionary to check my understanding of the word "learned" it says "someone who has acquired much knowledge through studies"; fair enough, but when is the time to challenge the great gift that we were born with, called brain? Yes, books give the direction but its on us how we interpret them. We need to encourage the healthy habit of muddling what we read in our minds. I believe we should be absolutely free to choose the right from the wrong. What I always see happening is that young minds are always so much conditioned to see and accept things the way it has always been that even a small kindergarten kid will have a negative opinion about the cute looking red devil with tail! Come to think of it, its nothing but the way the surrounding of the kid. Like Pink is a female color! Ferraris are Red! Nurses wear cool sexy short white skirts! or Chef's are dirty and Fat!!!

Never mind, coming back to Fall of 2002, I had done my bit to prove my worth in the country's education system, and was happily moving forward to take up an engineering course without even having a clue to what it will be to be an engineer. Would I be making roads and bridges (at least thats what I think of when I hear engineers, although my dad happens to be an engineer and trust me, I never seen him doing either) or would be sitting in the USA in some software company, punching a monotonous keyboard, having coffee and enjoying my NRI status back home. I didn't know then and i don't see many now either to proudly make bridges and roads, ones I see making roads don't look handsomely paid.Yet, I had this grilled in my head that life after school only starts at an engineering college. But within me, I had to do something more instantly creative! I liked to cook, I always felt that I will be able to take up this easiest form of world's oldest profession and do justice to it as i wont be able to do justice to the other world's oldest profession which, as i know is prostitution!

So here I come to a strange place called IHM&CT Pusa, New Delhi. Believe me, its not one of the campus one would want to be, its not bright and its not welcoming, but there is something in the place which attracted me. The BTK (basic training kitchen) was my first ambush with a professional kitchen and i was in love... As my friend SALT had put it in the previous post APPETIZERS, the beginning of a romance!!! then came ATK (advanced training kitchen) and I was madly in love by now. Passion was brewing like a flavored stock within me, slow and steady only grew stronger and richer everyday. Add to this the spice of having some lovely friends for life.. Abhinav, Raheja, Ravisha, Shradha, Nanzu and of course you Aki.. thanks guys! am I getting too emotional and all? Ok Ok, Cut to the birth of Kitcherie.... After I finish college and secure a decent job and while still keeping the passion on a slow simmer and hunger to learn more and more I met this young business person by the name of Mr.Abhinav Agarwal who had a similar passion like me and he had a major role to make me realize what I wanted to do in my life (that will be a different story for some other time). This was the evening where we usually sit down with god's own drink of a single malt in a delhi bar and trying out our first smoke, the tickling idea of opening a place of our own came back again. It was strong like a thrust and we even went to decide the name of my own restaurant. After some thousand names I came up with the name of kedgeree as the idea was to make the restaurant a place for comfort food, what more could be more comfortable to eat like a rissotto? The indian brother to risotto will be khichdi! or kedgeree which is again a transformed dish in its own. When I thought more of it, i wanted to call it KITCHERIE!!

Its been more than 3 years now, that I had that word with him and it was never forgotten since then. We always talk about this. I always say that alcohol will never lie, hurt or cheat, it will simply heal what needs to be fixed. I was with my friend salt the other day and we thought of voicing our thoughts to the dumb internet where our human need of getting to express is met, we promised to start a blog and then eventually after a long session we passed out.  This time the feeling was all the more stronger to be heard.  Very next day Mr. Salt gives me a call and asks me what will our blog be called? In a flash I respond "Kitcherie".

Kitcherie will be our attempt to voice our mixed emotions and feeling and all the unheard of voices in my little head about eating, passion, relations, friends, everything that is complicated, none the less - Food and beyond.  To me Kitcherie means the kitchen in my head where always something is cooking!! Like a melting pot of thoughts and beyond thoughts.

Friday, 1 October 2010

Appetizer


Becoming a Chef is not like ‘Love at first sight’ it is more like an ‘arranged marriage’
The very first instance an aspiring Chef walks into a professional kitchen, all the dreams of a perfect workplace get a very rude wake up alarm. You are here standing in a big, hot area divided into sub sections where Chefs work like an army simulation. It’s strange, confusing and shocking for many to see how that bloody operation works.
As the newest (and many at times the youngest) member of the Brigade you need to perform a lot of petty tasks like receiving, peeling, turning, slicing, and most important CLEANING. The chance of actually cooking food is very rare. And since you are new and have a lot to learn, you are obligated to work extended hours.

So why would any one still want to become a Chef?
Passion? for food/cuisine
Vision? for future endeavours
Dreams? To become a celebrated Chef, and blah! blah! blah!
Etc…

I believe, that they are all important. But at the start these take a back seat, and the budding Chefs needs determination, perseverance and willingness to learn.

It is with time that a young trainee chef gets acceptance by the kitchen. Every single day you learn something new, you do things that you had only seen other Chefs doing. And of course you TASTE and SEE the ingredients you had read about and seen in books. the first taste of a dish always stays with you and becomes a standard.

It was a sense of achievement I got when I made my first bread in the tandoor. It was not perfect, but the motivation to make it perfect comes from within and from the senior Chefs who encourage you seeing your effort.

Slowly Kitchen becomes more than just a workplace. It becomes Home. You love spending time there. The more responsibility you take for your work the more willingly others teach you the tricks of the trade. Earlier it was the Chef who used to push you and made you do extra hours and later it becomes a routine for you. Even if you leave on time on an occasion you have that feeling of guilt.

With time and study you start understanding the philosophy of cooking. How and why a certain ingredient is treated in a certain way. Why you add salt after the tomatoes, why you need to brown the onions slow and well to get that perfect curry. Slowly these theories that you had learned in college come to life as a practical session in front of you.

Different ingredients, different cooking techniques, different combinations. You start relating to food.

THAT’S WHEN THE ROMANCE STARTS…




Thursday, 30 September 2010

kitcherie: Chef - The Passionate Cook

kitcherie: Chef - The Passionate Cook: " Chef: The passionate cook For all those who have ever acted as chefs or ever dreamt of becoming one know, cooking is ..."

Chef - The Passionate Cook


Chef: The passionate cook

For all those who have ever acted as chefs or ever dreamt of becoming one know, cooking is not just another  means of livelihood, it’s a love affair, and it’s an art of living.
It’s neither the prestige that brings chefs into the kitchen, nor the corner office and definitely not the paycheck but in the heart and soul of the chefs they have it all. What else could drive us better to our workplace than the awe of creations we are part of everyday, to watch magic happen, to feel nectars flow through your fingertips, to allow oneself to be seduced by the very smell that leaves the pan and competes for one’s attention, to abandon your senses to absolute beauty that lies before you in the form of food waiting to be transformed.
Food for me, sustains and takes life, enhances, documents, influences and affirms life; but the most fascinating aspect of food is its connection to all aspects of living. I have experienced, food acting as a cultural ambassador of sorts, connecting us to the land, the seasons, the traditions, the livelihoods, the lifestyles, the art, the history of the people and everything that we could think of. Perhaps, for passionate chefs cooking at times is even better way of expressing themselves than words.  Almost every chef shares similar enthusiasm about cooking food and so much so that they derive their orgasm in cooking.
Food in all cultures has always been considered sacred. Food as a medium of art deserves a lot of respect. For the food, when we appreciate it always a complex medium as it needs to essentially engage the visual senses, taste buds, smell, textures and seldom auditory senses as well!!
Cooking for me is a proper combination of art and science in the proper harmony. Chefs at times see their kitchen as laboratories where every dish is carefully fused with flavors, their character is evolved and eventually every dish is transformed into a piece of fine art. Cooking does not require being very complex. As one of my mentor chefs always put it “cooking is simple, but to cook simple food is very difficult”. I always ask the young chefs to try and understand the philosophy of the food; understand and respect the people behind our cooking, to learn that food is born out of the lives of those who create it for us, with all of their wisdom, experience and heart.
I see myself as a very impatient person but a very patient Chef. I believe chefs have to live by the virtue of patience, see how the slow braised shanks of veal becomes fork tender with every passing minute, see the drippings of concentrated flavors to develop and enrich the sauce; see the skin of a roasted potato to get the even wrinkles and become as soft as butter, the perfect temperature of the oven roasts the chicken making it juicy and pink on the inside, and a nice crispy skin on the crust, all this comes with only patience. For me, the true essence of a dish is not born out of a recipe. It comes from the inspirations and very thoughtful techniques used every time a cook holds on to a beautiful piece of food. The art begins when the food being cooked is treated with respect, and lovingly brought to its new form. I don’t appreciate short cuts to be taken while cooking; I try to give the food the honor it deserves.
A chef always has an eagerness to learn and evolve and in the due process, he always has learning as one of the ultimate goals itself. The aim here is not only to sell the tangible product but also to share the knowledge and respect for the food, educate the people about the food. Being a chef is always not so easy; it’s like being a tightrope walker who needs to have a passion for the task, courage to climb up the rope and needs to have an impeccable sense of balance.